If you're tired of feeling cramped on your bike, swapping to a solid set of shovelhead forward controls might be the best weekend project you ever tackle. Let's be honest: riding an old Harley is all about the experience, but that experience loses its charm pretty fast if your knees are hovering near your elbows. The Shovelhead era, stretching from the mid-60s to the early 80s, gave us some of the most iconic engines ever made, but the ergonomics weren't always a one-size-fits-all situation.
For those of us with longer legs or just a preference for that laid-back chopper stance, getting your feet out in front of you is a game-changer. It's not just about looking cool—though that's a nice perk—it's about being able to stay in the saddle for more than forty-five minutes without your lower back screaming at you.
Why the Move to Forward Controls Makes Sense
Most Shovelheads originally came with mid-controls or floorboards, depending on whether you were rocking an FX or an FL model. Mid-controls are great for aggressive riding and flicking the bike around corners, but they can feel like a torture rack on a long highway stretch. When you install shovelhead forward controls, you're shifting your entire riding geometry. You're opening up your hips and letting your legs stretch out, which naturally shifts your weight back onto the meat of the seat.
It's a bit like moving from a kitchen chair to a recliner. You lose a little bit of that "active" leverage you get with mids, but you gain a massive amount of endurance. If you're building a bobber or a long-fork chopper, forward controls aren't just a suggestion; they're basically mandatory to get the lines of the bike looking right.
The Reality of the "Bolt-On" Installation
We've all seen the ads for kits that claim they "bolt on in minutes." If you've spent any time twisting wrenches on a Shovelhead, you know that's usually a optimistic take at best. Because these bikes have been through forty or fifty years of previous owners, modifications, and "custom" repairs, nothing is ever quite as simple as the manual says.
When you're looking at shovelhead forward controls, you have to consider your primary setup. Are you running a stock tin primary, an inner and outer aluminum setup, or an open 1.5-inch belt drive? This matters because the mounting points for your controls often share space with your primary covers. Some kits require spacers to clear the outer cover, while others might need you to get creative with a grinder if you're running a non-standard setup.
Then there's the kickstand. On many Shovelhead frames, the kickstand mount is integrated into the same area where the forward controls need to live. You don't want to get halfway through the job only to realize your bike won't stay upright because you had to remove the stand to fit the new pegs.
Dealing with the Brake Side
The right side of the bike is where things usually get a little more technical. Your shovelhead forward controls need to interface with your rear master cylinder. Depending on the kit you buy, you might be moving the master cylinder forward with the pegs, or you might be running a long linkage rod back to the stock location.
If you're moving the master cylinder forward, you're going to need a new, longer brake line. This is a great time to upgrade to a braided stainless line if you haven't already. Old rubber lines tend to expand under pressure, giving you that "mushy" brake feel that's common on vintage bikes. Getting a firm, responsive pedal is much easier when you're starting fresh with new components.
Another thing to watch out for is the clearance around your exhaust pipes. Shovelhead headers come in a thousand different shapes, and some of them wrap very tightly around the frame. You need to make sure your foot can actually reach the brake pedal without melting your boot or hitting the pipe before the brake even engages.
The Shifting Side and Linkage Woes
On the left side, it's all about the shift linkage. Shovelheads aren't exactly known for having "buttery smooth" gearboxes. Finding neutral can already be a scavenger hunt, and adding a long linkage rod into the mix can make things even vaguer if you don't set it up correctly.
When installing your shovelhead forward controls, you want to ensure the linkage rod is as straight as possible. Any weird angles or bends in the rod will create "slop" in the shifter. You'll end up clicking at the lever and wondering if the transmission actually did anything. Using high-quality heim joints (those little spherical rod ends) instead of cheap pins and clips makes a world of difference. They take the wiggle out of the pedal and give you a much more mechanical, positive click when you're banging through the gears.
Choosing the Right Style for Your Build
Not all forward controls are created equal. You've got the heavy-duty, "chunky" cast looks that fit perfectly on a rugged, daily-rider FLH, and then you've got the slim, billet aluminum or chrome-plated kits that look at home on a show-quality chopper.
- Chrome vs. Black: If your bike is covered in patina and 70s-era character, blindingly bright chrome controls might look out of place. Conversely, a blacked-out kit can disappear against the frame, which is great if you want a minimalist look.
- Footpeg Options: Some kits come with permanent pegs, while others use a standard male-mount clevis so you can swap in whatever pegs you want. I personally prefer the swap-friendly versions. Being able to put on a set of wide, grippy BMX-style pegs or classic rubber "O-ring" pegs lets you fine-tune the vibe.
- The Reach: If you're on the shorter side, look for "reduced reach" kits. Some forward controls out there seem designed for people who are 6'5", and reaching for the pedals can actually cause more back pain than the mid-controls did.
Maintenance and Long-Term Reliability
Once you've got your shovelhead forward controls dialed in, you can't just forget about them. These bikes vibrate—a lot. It's part of the Shovelhead charm, but it's also the enemy of anything held together by bolts.
Use blue Loctite on everything. I've seen more than one rider limping home with their left foot dangling because the shifter peg vibrated off somewhere on the interstate. Periodically check the pivot points on the pedals, too. A little bit of grease goes a long way in preventing that annoying squeak every time you shift or brake.
Also, keep an eye on your linkage adjustments. Over the first few hundred miles, things might settle in, and you might find you need to adjust the rod length slightly to keep the pedal at the perfect angle for your foot. You want to be able to cover the brake and shifter comfortably without having to lift your entire leg off the peg.
Final Thoughts on the Switch
At the end of the day, installing shovelhead forward controls is one of those modifications that fundamentally changes how the bike feels. It turns a cramped, nervous-feeling machine into a cruiser that wants to eat up miles. It might take a little bit of shimming, a bit of swearing, and a few trips to the hardware store to get everything lined up perfectly with your specific frame and primary, but the first time you kick it into gear and stretch your legs out, you'll know it was worth the effort.
Whether you're going for that classic "Easy Rider" look or you just want to stop your knees from cramping up, getting your feet forward is a solid move. Just take your time with the alignment, don't skimp on the hardware, and make sure your brakes are bled perfectly before you head out for that first test ride. Your back, and your bike's silhouette, will thank you.